In 2019, the FDA and USDA decided to jointly regulate lab-grown meat. The FDA will regulate the process of growing the animals cells in a bioreactor, while the USDA will handle the meat production once the cells are harvested. Martin described these bioreactors as a sterile environment that serves as a “scaffolding of a building,” providing the nutrients and chemicals needed for the cells to turn into items like cutlets, sausages or other foods.
Lab-grown meat must undergo the same inspection as traditional meat under the Federal Meat Inspection Act (FMIA). Both UPSIDE Foods and Good Meat plan to serve their products through exclusive restaurant partnership. UPSIDE Food will sell their product to the San Francisco restaurant Bar Crenn, and Good Meat will partner with one of Jose Andrés’ Washington, D.C. restaurants.
For now, lab-grown meat is not commercially available at grocery stores. If or when that point arrives, Martin doesn’t expect a dramatic change in consumer behavior.
“You know, there is always that ... ‘what if,’ but what we’ve seen is that consumers tend to be steadfast in their demand for meat proteins produced in the traditional sense,” Martin said, adding that it will be difficult to tell how lab-grown meat will affect traditional agriculture and meat markets.
Research supports Martin. A recent survey found that half of Americans do not have a desire to try meat cultivated in a lab.
There is, however, the climate to consider. According to CSU, agriculture “covers more than half of Earth’s terrestrial surface and contributes roughly one-third of global greenhouse gas emissions.” Meat production is a significant portion of that, and advocates for the “no-kill” production of meat say that this method of lab-based meat cultivation will dramatically decrease the effects of grazing, growing feed for animals and animal waste.
Ricardo San Martin, the director of the Alt:Meat Lab at University of California Berkeley, told the Associated Press that if lab-grown meat remains a niche product for Michelin-star chefs, the environmental impacts will be minimal.
Martin did mention some benefits of traditional agriculture. For example, she highlighted how cattle grazing can be used to restore “spent” lands, which is land that is devoid of nutrients needed to grow produce.
“And what we do know it’s going to take all of us. We all play a role in a healthy environment. We play a role in climate change. We play a role in food security,” Martin explained. “And it’s going to take every single person. It’s going to take science and innovation, but it’s also going to take the person who isn’t a scientist but making good decisions at home.”
Martin said one of the main ways people can help lessen their footprint is to be cognizant of when they’re using too much water. But whatever people choose to do, especially when it comes to diet, Martin said respectful conversations are important.
“If you want to eat meat, that’s amazing,” Martin said. “If you choose not to eat meat, that’s amazing as well. I think one of the things that is easy in this space, which is really interesting, is we try to pit each other against each other. And the reality is, at the end of the day, we want to be healthy. We want to make sure that the food, whatever it is, is safe and accessible, and it delivers the nutrients we need, and there is no need for that to be contentious.”
Lindsey Ford is a multimedia journalist at Rocky Mountan PBS. You can reach her at lindseyford@rmpbs.org.
