The Mothers of Invention
Sure, there are great male chefs in Mexico. But women are the true mothers of this cuisine. From market cafes to hip, new white- tablecloth restaurants, the cuisine of Mexico comes from a rich tradition of hearth, home and women's hands. Starting at the Convent of Sor Juana, the great 17th-Century Mexican poet, feminist and culinarian, Rick sets out on a treasure hunt in search of Mexico's great women chefs. There is his old friend, the revered Carmen Ramirez Degollado, herself a national culinary treasure, who is one of the great "keepers of the flame" of traditional Mexican cooking. She joins Rick and his daughter, Lanie, to make Shrimp Stew with Epazote at her famed El Bajio restaurant. Then they hit the other end of the spectrum, with a visit to Solange Muris at the muy moderno Manzanilla restaurant across town, to chat about wine, women and the new world of Mexican cuisine. Back at home, Rick and his favorite female chef, Lanie, whip up a fast family dinner: Seared Salmon with Spinach and Creamy Roasted Peppers and a surprise dessert: Mango Upside Down Skillet Cake.
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